Thursday, November 1, 2007

The New Tema Station, Brought to You by Raid

Every country has its problem areas in terms of poverty and so called "eye sores" in its cities. I guess when I first arrived at Tema Station in Accra, Ghana - the main station where tro-tros (rundown mini-buses) convene - I never considered it to be problematic. Yes, I will admit the hustle and bustle of the tro-tros, vendors, and pedestrians was a little overwhelming at first with people crying out the prices of their merchandise and trying to get the attention of people as they walked by, especially us Obrunis (caucasians). However, visiting the market or driving through the streets of Accra, you would encounter the same kinds of activity. People everywhere here are struggling to get by and are making their ends meet by selling their merchandise whereever and however they can.

After living in Accra for a couple of months, I was really beginning to enjoy the charm of Tema Station. It has a certain rhythm about it. Any day to day item you need can be found there and Maya, my roommate, and I would often pick up our produce for dinner there on our way home. Day after day we would see the same women and men as we passed through the station on our way to or from work. Faces became familiar and we befriended a couple of the vendors where we purchased shoes or produce.

For many of the women, men, and children in Tema Station, it was not only the location of their business, but often their home as well. Small sheds were set up and adorned with their merchandise and with no other place to go, some people spent their entire days and nights there. You can see them sleeping in the day's heat or eating their dinners as you pass by on the way to your cozy home or dinner. It really is remarkable to see people so chipper every day when you know that they are faced with such poverty. It really puts things in your life into perspective.

About a week and a half ago, the Tema Station I had grown so accustomed to underwent major changes. One afternoon on our way home from work, we noticed that they had begun to tear down some of the sheds. Utterly confused, Maya and I speculated that maybe it had something to do with the looming rain. The next morning when our tro-tro pulled into the station we realized that we were terribly wrong. The strong smell of smoke stung our nostrils and we glanced out the tro-tro window in shock and disbelief at the rubble and garbage that was the only remaining evidence of the vivacity that had previously occupied Tema Station. It was overwhelmingly disheartening. I walked through the station absolutely numb at the thought of all of those people who had nowhere to go. How do you take everything you have and just start over in the streets? As if life is not difficult enough as it is.

I soon learned from a friend that the motives behind the 'clean-up' were to make a cleaner Accra. However, there is some speculation that it has something to do with the upcoming 2008 African Nations Cup that is being hosted in Ghana or the 2008 Presidential Election. Whatever the true motivations, it makes me really sad to see so many people at a loss of their home, their business, and, for some, their merchandise. I cannot even begin to fathom the challenges these brave people face with pride and dignity every day of their lives. And now the government poses another barrier for them without providing them with an alternative place to go. One can only speculate that as a result of this action, crime rates will go up and more lives will be lost due to a lack of basic provisions.

Ghana is not alone in sweeping their problems under the rug so that the world does not see it. After talking to friends, I learned that Vancouver is doing a similar clean-up for the 2010 Olympics. It is happening right in our Canadian backyard. And the worst part? The way only a positive light is shed on these endeavours. They are not providing people with a way to end their troubles, they are adding to them and yet claiming it to be a good thing. And right outside Tema Station now hangs a sign that's revolting underlying message says it all about the mentality behind this sweep: The New Tema Station, brought to you by Raid.

There`s No Hallowe'en in Ghana But Dressing Up Still Happens in October

One bright October morning, my colleagues and I travelled to a school to address the new students and educate them about the Youth Savings Club in their school. We arrived at the school and asked to speak to the Teacher Supervisor of the club. Unfortunately, according to her colleagues, she had not yet arrived. So we began to walk around in search of her or a member of the Youth Savings Club that could point us in the right direction.

There was a lot of commotion and chanting in the school, and as we turned a corner in the corridor there was a large group of students all crossdressing! It was very surprising to me as homosexuality is very frowned upon and illegal in Ghana. Students had smiles plastered on their faces and they were singing, dancing, and chanting through the school in large groups. At one point, a man dressed as a school boy ran by us followed by students. We came to learn that he is the headmaster of the school.

We were pointed in the direction of the auditorium where the addresses to first years were being held. We arrived just as the addresses were wrapping up to find the Teacher Supervisor, Abena, sitting at the back of the auditorium. Such is life sometimes in Ghana. Things do not always go according to plan and you need to be really flexible. We therefore took the opportunity to go converse with her in the staff room so that we could learn more about their school's Youth Savings Club and its successes and challenges.

During our time in the staff room, one of the male teachers came in all dolled up and pulling off a very convincing woman - high voice and all. There were many laughs shared amongst staff members. It turns out that the school was celebrating its Silver Jubilee and that was the launch of two weeks worth of celebrations to mark the event.

It was nice to see that both students and teachers alike are open to experimentation for the sake of celebrating such an important event in their school's history. The joy was infectuous and I can still see and hear them chanting their school's success.